Tbilisi Food Culture
Traditional dishes, dining customs, and culinary experiences
Culinary Culture
Tbilisi's food culture is defined by the supra tradition of communal feasting, an ancient relationship with wine that dates back 8,000 years, and a distinctive use of aromatic herbs, walnuts, and spices that reflect Georgia's position on the Silk Road. The city's culinary identity balances bold, complex flavors with simple, high-quality ingredients, where every meal is an opportunity for hospitality and connection.
Traditional Dishes
Must-try local specialties that define Tbilisi's culinary heritage
Khinkali (ხინკალი)
Large, pleated soup dumplings filled with spiced meat (traditionally a mix of pork and beef), onions, and aromatic herbs, with a pocket of flavorful broth inside. These are eaten by hand, holding the topknot, taking a small bite to sip the broth first, then consuming the dumpling while leaving the tough top behind. The number of topknots left on your plate becomes a point of pride at the table.
Originating in the mountainous regions of Pshavi and Mtiuleti in northeastern Georgia, khinkali were traditionally made by mountain shepherds as hearty, portable sustenance. They've become Tbilisi's most iconic dish, with locals fiercely debating which neighborhood makes the best version.
Khachapuri (ხაჭაპური)
Georgia's national dish of cheese-filled bread comes in several regional varieties. In Tbilisi, you'll find Imeretian (circular, cheese-filled flatbread), Adjarian (boat-shaped with egg and butter), and Megrelian (topped with extra cheese). The Adjarian version is eaten by tearing off pieces of the bread boat and dipping them into the molten cheese, egg, and butter mixture in the center.
Each region of Georgia claims its own khachapuri style, reflecting local cheese-making traditions. The dish has become so integral to Georgian identity that the 'Khachapuri Index' tracks economic inflation based on its ingredients' cost.
Badrijani Nigvzit (ბადრიჯანი ნიგვზით)
Fried eggplant rolls stuffed with a rich paste made from ground walnuts, garlic, vinegar, and aromatic spices including blue fenugreek and coriander. The rolls are garnished with pomegranate seeds, creating a beautiful contrast of flavors—creamy, tangy, and slightly sweet.
This dish exemplifies Georgian cuisine's masterful use of walnuts, which grow abundantly in the region. The walnut paste technique appears in numerous Georgian dishes and reflects the country's ancient agricultural traditions.
Mtsvadi (მწვადი)
Georgian-style shashlik consisting of large chunks of pork, beef, or lamb marinated simply in onions, salt, and sometimes pomegranate juice, then grilled over grapevine embers. Served with raw onions, pomegranate seeds, and tkemali (sour plum sauce), the meat is smoky, juicy, and incredibly flavorful without heavy marinades.
Grilling meat over vine cuttings is an ancient Georgian tradition that imparts a subtle, distinctive flavor. Mtsvadi is the centerpiece of outdoor gatherings and celebrations, traditionally prepared by men while wine flows.
Pkhali (ფხალი)
A family of vegetable pâtés made from finely chopped vegetables (spinach, beets, cabbage, or beans) mixed with the signature walnut-garlic paste, vinegar, and spices, formed into balls or patties and garnished with pomegranate seeds. Each variety offers different flavors while maintaining the characteristic nutty richness.
Pkhali represents Georgian cuisine's vegetable-forward tradition, developed partly due to the Orthodox Christian fasting calendar requiring meat-free days. The dishes are so flavorful that they're enjoyed year-round by everyone.
Kharcho (ხარჩო)
A hearty, aromatic soup made with beef, rice, cherry plum purée (tkemali), chopped walnuts, and a distinctive spice blend including coriander, marigold petals, and blue fenugreek. The result is a thick, tangy, deeply flavorful soup with complex layers of taste.
Originating from the Samegrelo region of western Georgia, kharcho has become a Tbilisi staple, especially popular during colder months. The use of tkemali gives it a characteristic sourness that defines Georgian soup traditions.
Lobio (ლობიო)
A rich stew of kidney beans cooked with onions, garlic, herbs (especially cilantro), and Georgian spices, traditionally served in a clay pot called a ketsi. Often accompanied by mchadi (cornbread) and pickled vegetables, it's hearty, protein-rich, and deeply satisfying.
Lobio has sustained Georgians for centuries as an affordable, nutritious dish. The clay pot preparation keeps the beans hot throughout the meal and adds an earthy dimension to the dish's flavor profile.
Churchkhela (ჩურჩხელა)
A traditional Georgian candy made by repeatedly dipping strings of walnuts or hazelnuts into thickened grape juice (or sometimes pomegranate juice) until they're coated in a thick, chewy layer. The result resembles a candle and has a unique texture—chewy, sweet, and nutty.
Dating back centuries, churchkhela was created as a high-energy food for warriors and travelers. Made during the grape harvest season, strings of churchkhela hanging to dry are a quintessential autumn sight in Georgian households.
Chakapuli (ჩაქაფული)
A spring stew made with lamb or veal, fresh tarragon, green plums (or sometimes white wine and vinegar), onions, and garlic. The meat becomes incredibly tender, and the sauce is herbaceous, tangy, and light—a refreshing contrast to heavier Georgian meat dishes.
Chakapuli is traditionally prepared for Easter and spring celebrations when fresh tarragon and sour green plums are in season. It represents the lighter, brighter side of Georgian cuisine.
Satsivi (საცივი)
Turkey or chicken in a rich, creamy walnut sauce flavored with garlic, coriander, cinnamon, cloves, and marigold petals. Traditionally served cold or at room temperature, the sauce is thick, complex, and utterly distinctive.
A centerpiece of Georgian New Year celebrations, satsivi (which means 'cold' in Georgian) showcases the cuisine's masterful use of walnut sauces. Families guard their recipes closely, with each having subtle variations.
Shkmeruli (შქმერული)
Chicken cooked in a clay pot with an abundance of garlic and cream, creating a rich, aromatic sauce. The dish is intensely garlicky and comforting, traditionally prepared in the Racha region but now popular throughout Tbilisi.
Named after the village of Shkmeri in northwestern Georgia, this dish gained international fame when it was featured on a British supermarket menu. It represents Georgian mountain cuisine's hearty, warming character.
Ajapsandali (აჯაფსანდალი)
A vegetarian stew of eggplant, potatoes, tomatoes, bell peppers, and herbs, slowly cooked until the vegetables meld into a rich, flavorful dish. Served warm or at room temperature, it's similar to ratatouille but with distinctly Georgian seasoning.
This dish reflects Georgian cuisine's Mediterranean influences and the abundance of summer vegetables. It's a staple during Orthodox fasting periods and showcases how Georgian vegetarian food is never an afterthought.
Taste Tbilisi's Best Flavors
A food tour is the fastest way to find good spots. Sample traditional dishes and learn from guides who know the neighborhood.
Browse Food ToursDining Etiquette
Dining in Tbilisi is deeply rooted in the tradition of the supra, where meals are social ceremonies governed by customs of hospitality, toasting, and communal sharing. Understanding these customs enhances your experience and shows respect for Georgian culture, though locals are generally forgiving of foreigners' unfamiliarity with traditions.
The Supra and Toasting
The supra is a traditional Georgian feast led by a tamada (toastmaster) who guides elaborate toasting rituals throughout the meal. Toasts are lengthy, poetic, and meaningful, covering topics from family to friendship to peace. When a toast is made, everyone must drink (traditionally wine from a horn called a kantsi, which can't be set down until empty). This isn't casual drinking—it's a structured, respectful ceremony.
Do
- Wait for the tamada to make toasts before drinking
- Stand when making or receiving a toast if you're able
- Listen respectfully to toasts, which can be quite long and emotional
- Participate in toasts even if you drink slowly or choose non-alcoholic options
Don't
- Don't interrupt the tamada or make random toasts
- Don't clink glasses during toasts—raise your glass but don't touch others'
- Don't refuse hospitality or toasts outright—it can be seen as insulting
- Don't rush through meals; supras are meant to last hours
Sharing and Ordering
Georgian meals are inherently communal. Dishes are placed in the center of the table for everyone to share, and ordering individual plates is uncommon in traditional settings. Food arrives all at once rather than in courses, creating an abundant spread. It's expected that hosts or restaurants will provide more food than can possibly be eaten—this abundance is a point of pride.
Do
- Order multiple dishes to share when dining in groups
- Try a bit of everything on the table
- Expect generous portions and plan accordingly
- Accept seconds if offered—refusing can seem ungrateful
Don't
- Don't expect Western-style coursed meals
- Don't worry about finishing everything—leftovers are normal
- Don't be surprised if more food keeps arriving
- Don't insist on splitting dishes by person in traditional restaurants
Restaurant Behavior
Tbilisi restaurants are generally relaxed and informal, even in upscale establishments. Service can be slower than Western standards, as meals are meant to be leisurely. Waitstaff may not check on you frequently—you'll need to signal when you need something. Reservations are increasingly important at popular spots, especially on weekends.
Do
- Make reservations at popular restaurants, especially for dinner
- Signal waitstaff by making eye contact or a subtle hand gesture
- Be patient with service—slow doesn't mean bad
- Ask for recommendations—servers are usually proud to suggest dishes
Don't
- Don't expect constant check-ins from servers
- Don't snap fingers or whistle to get attention
- Don't rush through meals—dining is a social experience
- Don't be surprised if the bill takes time to arrive
Breakfast
Breakfast (7:00-10:00 AM) is typically light—coffee or tea with bread, cheese, and perhaps eggs. Many Tbilisi residents grab breakfast at bakeries, having khachapuri or lobiani (bean-filled bread) on the go. Hotel breakfasts tend to be more substantial.
Lunch
Lunch (1:00-3:00 PM) is traditionally the main meal, though this is changing with modern work schedules. Business lunches are common, and many restaurants offer lunch specials. Expect restaurants to be busiest during this window, especially on weekdays.
Dinner
Dinner (8:00 PM-midnight or later) is the main social meal, especially on weekends. Georgians dine late by Western standards, and restaurants fill up after 9:00 PM. Weekend dinners, especially supras, can extend well past midnight with music, dancing, and endless toasting.
Tipping Guide
Restaurants: 10-15% is standard and appreciated in restaurants. Some establishments include service charges, so check your bill. In traditional, family-run places, tipping is less expected but welcomed.
Cafes: Rounding up or leaving 5-10% is common in cafes. For just coffee, leaving small change (1-2 GEL) is sufficient.
Bars: Tipping isn't obligatory in bars, but leaving 5-10% or rounding up is appreciated, especially if you've received good service or stayed for multiple rounds.
Cash tips are preferred over adding to card payments. In very casual or budget establishments, tipping is less expected. Never feel obligated to tip for poor service, but good service deserves recognition as hospitality workers' wages are modest.
Street Food
Tbilisi's street food scene is evolving but remains relatively modest compared to other major cities. Traditional Georgian cuisine was historically home-based or restaurant-centered, so classic 'street food' in the Southeast Asian sense doesn't have deep roots here. However, you'll find bakeries and small stands selling portable Georgian staples throughout the city, and the street food culture is growing with food trucks and market vendors offering both traditional and modern options. The best 'street food' experience often comes from bakeries where you can grab fresh khachapuri or lobiani through a window, or from the food stalls at markets like Deserter's Bazaar.
Fresh Khachapuri from Bakeries
Warm, cheese-filled bread straight from traditional tone ovens. The Imeretian style is most portable, with melted cheese encased in fluffy bread. Best eaten immediately while the cheese is still molten.
Bakeries throughout the city, especially in Sololaki, Vera, and Old Town neighborhoods; look for shops with traditional tone ovens visible
3-6 GEL (€1-2)Lobiani (ლობიანი)
Bean-filled bread similar to khachapuri but stuffed with spiced kidney beans instead of cheese. The filling is savory, slightly spicy, and satisfying—a perfect vegetarian street food option.
Same bakeries that sell khachapuri; particularly common in the morning as a breakfast option
2-4 GEL (€0.70-1.50)Churchkhela
Walnut or hazelnut strings coated in dried grape juice—chewy, naturally sweet, and energy-dense. Each bite combines the crunch of nuts with the fruity chewiness of the coating.
Market stalls, especially Deserter's Bazaar and Dry Bridge Market; street vendors in tourist areas; best quality at farmers markets
2-5 GEL (€0.70-1.80) per piecePelamushi (ფელამუში)
A traditional dessert made from grape juice thickened with flour into a pudding-like consistency. Sweet, smooth, and refreshing, it tastes like concentrated grapes with a unique texture.
Market vendors, particularly at Deserter's Bazaar; some bakeries and sweet shops
3-5 GEL (€1-1.80)Grilled Corn (Simindi)
Fresh corn grilled over charcoal and served hot, often with a sprinkle of salt. Simple but delicious, especially popular in summer and autumn when corn is in season.
Street vendors near parks, metro stations, and busy pedestrian areas, particularly in warmer months
2-3 GEL (€0.70-1)Shawarma (Georgian-style)
While not traditionally Georgian, shawarma stands are ubiquitous in Tbilisi and offer a quick, affordable meal. Georgian versions often include local touches and are generally well-made.
Small stands throughout the city, especially near metro stations, on Rustaveli Avenue, and in Vera; many open late night
5-8 GEL (€1.80-3)Best Areas for Street Food
Deserter's Bazaar (Dezerter Bazari)
Known for: Fresh produce, churchkhela, dried fruits, spices, fresh herbs, and prepared foods like pelamushi. The surrounding streets have small eateries serving home-style Georgian food.
Best time: Morning to early afternoon (8:00 AM-3:00 PM) when selection is best and the market is most vibrant
Rustaveli Avenue and Freedom Square
Known for: Bakeries, shawarma stands, and cafes offering grab-and-go options. High foot traffic area with numerous quick eating options for tourists and locals.
Best time: All day, but especially bustling during lunch hours (1:00-3:00 PM) and early evening
Dry Bridge Market (Khidi Bazari)
Known for: Weekend flea market with vendors selling churchkhela, nuts, dried fruits, and traditional sweets alongside antiques and Soviet memorabilia.
Best time: Weekends, especially Saturday and Sunday mornings (9:00 AM-2:00 PM)
Fabrika Area
Known for: Modern food scene with food trucks, hipster cafes, and contemporary takes on Georgian street food. More international options mixed with local flavors.
Best time: Evenings and weekends when the courtyard is most active; food trucks often operate late
Dining by Budget
Tbilisi offers exceptional value for food, with even budget travelers able to eat remarkably well. The Georgian lari (GEL) exchange rate is favorable for most Western visitors (approximately 1 GEL = €0.35 or $0.38 as of 2024), making quality dining accessible across all price points. Traditional Georgian restaurants offer the best value, while international cuisine and trendy spots command higher prices.
Budget-Friendly
Typical meal: 5-10 GEL (€1.80-3.50) per meal
- Eat your main meal at lunch when many restaurants offer better prices
- Order khinkali by the piece (usually 0.80-1.20 GEL each) to control costs
- Shop at Deserter's Bazaar for fresh, affordable ingredients
- Look for 'business lunch' specials (10-15 GEL for a full meal)
- Bakeries offer the best value for filling, delicious food
- Avoid restaurants in prime tourist areas like Old Town where prices are inflated
- Georgian wine is incredibly affordable—even good bottles cost 15-25 GEL in shops
Mid-Range
Typical meal: 20-35 GEL (€7-12) per meal
Splurge
Dietary Considerations
Tbilisi is increasingly accommodating to various dietary needs, though understanding Georgian cuisine's foundations helps navigate restrictions. Traditional Georgian food includes many naturally vegetarian dishes due to Orthodox fasting traditions, but veganism is less understood. Communication can be challenging in smaller establishments where English is limited, but pointing to ingredients and using translation apps generally works well.
Vegetarian & Vegan
Vegetarians will thrive in Tbilisi—Georgian cuisine has a strong vegetarian tradition with dishes like pkhali, badrijani, lobio, and various khachapuri styles. Many restaurants offer extensive vegetarian sections. Vegans face more challenges as cheese, butter, and eggs are fundamental to Georgian cooking, but options exist, especially in modern cafes and international restaurants.
Local options: Pkhali (vegetable pâtés with walnut paste), Badrijani nigvzit (eggplant rolls with walnut filling), Lobio (bean stew—ensure it's made without meat stock), Ajapsandali (vegetable stew), Mchadi (cornbread without dairy), Various mushroom dishes, Fresh salads with walnut dressings, Grilled vegetables, Lobiani (bean-filled bread for vegans), Matsoni (yogurt for vegetarians)
- Learn key phrases: 'Ara khortsi' (no meat), 'Ara rdzis produktebi' (no dairy products)
- Ask about stock bases—some 'vegetarian' dishes use meat stock
- Walnut-based sauces are your friend—naturally vegan and ubiquitous
- During Orthodox fasting periods (Lent, Advent, Wednesdays, Fridays), many restaurants offer expanded vegan options
- Modern cafes in Fabrika, Vera, and Sololaki neighborhoods are more vegan-aware
- Khachapuri can be made with less cheese or vegan cheese in some modern establishments
- Markets offer abundant fresh produce, nuts, and fruits for self-catering
Food Allergies
Common allergens: Walnuts (used extensively in sauces, pkhali, and many dishes), Dairy (cheese, butter, matsoni yogurt in many dishes), Eggs (in khachapuri and various preparations), Wheat/gluten (bread is central to Georgian meals), Coriander/cilantro (used liberally in many dishes)
Write down your allergies in Georgian or show pictures of ingredients you must avoid. Restaurant staff in tourist areas generally understand common allergies, but in traditional establishments, communication can be challenging. Translation apps are essential. Be very clear about severity—Georgians may not understand the difference between preference and medical necessity.
Useful phrase: Useful phrases: 'Maqvs alergia...' (I have an allergy to...). For nuts: 'nigvzi' (walnuts), dairy: 'rdzis produktebi', eggs: 'kvercxi'. Consider carrying an allergy card in Georgian.
Halal & Kosher
Halal options are limited but available, particularly in restaurants serving Middle Eastern or Turkish cuisine. Tbilisi has a small Muslim community, and a few halal-certified restaurants exist. Kosher options are extremely rare—there's a small Jewish community but virtually no kosher certification infrastructure.
Halal restaurants are concentrated around the Old Town and near the Jumah Mosque area. Some Turkish and Azerbaijani restaurants serve halal meat. For kosher travelers, vegetarian Georgian dishes and fish options are the safest bets. Contact the Georgian Jewish community in advance for specific recommendations.
Gluten-Free
Gluten-free dining is challenging but manageable. Bread is central to Georgian cuisine, and many dishes involve wheat. However, several traditional dishes are naturally gluten-free. Modern cafes and international restaurants are increasingly aware of gluten-free needs, though cross-contamination can be an issue in traditional kitchens.
Naturally gluten-free: Mtsvadi (grilled meat—ensure no flour in marinade), Most pkhali varieties (check preparation), Badrijani nigvzit (eggplant rolls), Lobio (bean stew—verify no wheat thickener), Ajapsandali (vegetable stew), Grilled vegetables and meats, Fresh salads, Mchadi (cornbread—naturally gluten-free), Most walnut-based sauces, Matsoni (yogurt), Fresh fruits and churchkhela (check ingredients)
Food Markets
Experience local food culture at markets and food halls
Deserter's Bazaar (Dezerter Bazari)
Tbilisi's main food market is a sensory overload of fresh produce, herbs, spices, cheeses, meats, dried fruits, nuts, and traditional Georgian products. The market's name comes from deserters who allegedly sold goods here in the 19th century. It's chaotic, authentic, and essential for understanding Georgian food culture.
Best for: Fresh herbs (sold in massive bundles), Georgian cheeses (especially sulguni and imeruli), churchkhela, spices, fresh produce, dried fruits, walnuts, and people-watching. The prepared food section offers pelamushi and other traditional sweets.
Daily from early morning to late afternoon; busiest and best selection 8:00 AM-2:00 PM; some vendors stay until 6:00 PM
Dry Bridge Market (Khidi Bazari)
While primarily known for antiques, Soviet memorabilia, and artwork, this weekend market also features vendors selling traditional Georgian sweets, churchkhela, nuts, and dried fruits. The market sprawls along the dry riverbed near the Dry Bridge, creating a unique shopping atmosphere.
Best for: Churchkhela, traditional sweets, dried fruits, and combining food shopping with browsing Soviet-era treasures and local art
Weekends (Saturday and Sunday) from approximately 9:00 AM-5:00 PM; most active in the morning
Eliava Market (Eliava Bazari)
A more local, less touristy alternative to Deserter's Bazaar, located in the Vake district. This market serves neighborhood residents and offers similar products in a slightly less overwhelming environment.
Best for: Fresh produce, meats, cheeses, and experiencing a market where locals actually shop without tourist markup
Daily from early morning to afternoon; best selection in the morning hours
Station Square Market (Sadguris Moedani)
Located near the train station, this market caters to both locals and people arriving from Georgia's regions. You'll find seasonal produce, regional specialties, and good prices, though the area is grittier than other markets.
Best for: Regional products, seasonal specialties, and rock-bottom prices; interesting for adventurous food explorers
Daily; mornings are best for selection
Farmers Markets (Various locations)
During growing seasons, small farmers markets pop up in various neighborhoods, selling ultra-fresh produce directly from rural producers. These rotate locations and aren't always permanent fixtures.
Best for: Seasonal fruits and vegetables at peak freshness, artisanal products, and connecting with rural producers
Primarily spring through autumn; check local listings for current locations and times
Lilo Market
Tbilisi's largest market, located on the city's outskirts. This massive complex handles wholesale distribution but also sells retail. It's overwhelming in scale and primarily frequented by locals buying in bulk.
Best for: Bulk purchases, lowest prices, and experiencing the scale of Georgian food distribution; not recommended for casual tourists
Daily from very early morning; best visited with a local guide or if you're comfortable navigating without English
Seasonal Eating
Georgian cuisine is deeply connected to seasons, with dishes, ingredients, and even eating patterns shifting throughout the year. The country's diverse microclimates produce different ingredients at different times, and traditional Orthodox fasting periods also influence what's available. Visiting in different seasons offers distinct culinary experiences, from spring's fresh herbs to autumn's grape harvest.
Spring (March-May)
- Fresh tarragon, cilantro, and wild herbs flood markets
- Green plums (tkemali) appear for making sour plum sauce
- Early vegetables like radishes, green onions, and lettuce
- Easter celebrations with special foods
- Lighter, herb-forward dishes become prominent
- Wild mushrooms in mountain regions
Summer (June-August)
- Tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and cucumbers at peak flavor
- Outdoor dining and grilling culture in full swing
- Fresh fruits including cherries, apricots, peaches, and berries
- Watermelons and melons everywhere
- Outdoor wine gardens and terraces open
- Food festivals in various regions
Autumn (September-November)
- Grape harvest (rtveli) and wine-making season
- Churchkhela production—strings hanging to dry everywhere
- Walnuts, hazelnuts, and chestnuts in abundance
- Pomegranates at their peak
- Mushroom foraging season
- Persimmons and quinces appear
- Wine festivals and harvest celebrations
Winter (December-February)
- Hearty stews and warming soups dominate menus
- Citrus season—tangerines and oranges from western Georgia
- New Year's celebrations with special dishes
- Orthodox Christmas (January 7) traditional foods
- Root vegetables and preserved foods
- Indoor dining with traditional ambiance
- Reduced tourist crowds mean better local experiences